Many American cities have a surplus of good Italian restaurants, but what’s largely been missing are grand-scale Italian seafood restaurants.

There was, of course, Paul Bartolotta’s Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare, which left an Adriatic Sea-sized hole in the Las Vegas dining scene when it closed in 2015 after a remarkable ten-year run. There is Michael White’s Marea in New York. And then, well, that’s kind of it. (Mario Batali and David Pasternack deserve a lot of credit for Esca and the seafood at Eataly in New York, and it’s nice to see Michael Cimarusti at L.A.’s new Eataly, but the ambitions and magnitude of Bartolotta and Marea as standalone restaurants are next-level.)