It’s nice to see a big-name, Chicago-based Italian eatery finally open in central Illinois. No, not that one. We’re talking about Rosati’s Pizza, which recently debuted in North Pekin without any debate or fanfare. Lots of flavor, hold the controversy: We prefer our food that way.

Rosati’s takes over a strip-mall slot formerly occupied by Mickie’s Pizzeria, now in East Peoria. Dozens of Rosati’s Pizza places dot the Chicago area, where the operation began in 1964, while multiple outposts sit on both coasts and elsewhere nationally.