The first thing you'll likely notice about Anthony's Italian Eats (7641 Wydown Boulevard, Clayton; 314-721-3233) is just how small it is. On first glance, the former home of Manhattan Express looks every inch the counter-service deli it used to be, complete with a glass case of meats at the front.

But once your eyes adjust to the size of the room, you may notice other things: the comfortable high-backed black leather chairs that sit behind each table. The gorgeous chandelier providing a soft glow. The framed family portraits sitting on a shelf between two small racks of wine. The space may be tiny, but every inch has been given over to a warm ambiance.