SCAMPI Once he found the space, PJ Calapa, a chef who was formerly with Michael White’s Altamarea Group, did not take long to open his dream restaurant. About eight months might be some kind of record.

Polished pale concrete on the floor and the bar, and generous windows, make for an airy setting. There are touches of blue, including on some of the handmade pottery by Wynne Noble of Brooklyn, which Mr. Calapa commissioned.