When I heard a “casual” Italian restaurant was opening in the former home of Germantown Craft House (and, briefly, Goss Ave. Pub), I envisioned cheap plates of spaghetti and pizza by the slice.

When I went with friends to Sarino for dinner on a recent Saturday, we were informed we were the last walk-in table — making reservations was highly recommended to us for future weekend visits. Duly noted.