Depending on where you live in the Valley, a visit to Osteria might feel like something of an odyssey. To get there, drive past the fraying orange groves on McKellips Road, past the sun-blanched hangars of Falcon Field, until you reach the northeastern edges of Mesa. Drive any farther east and you’ll hit the Superstition Mountains.

Until recently, this part of Mesa was better known for its active senior-living communities than for its dining scene. Osteria, a new Italian restaurant from local restaurateurs Jeff and Alec-Lauren Golzio and chef Tony Snyder, is changing that.