On June 10, 2007, nearly 12 million TV watchers all had the same thought: “Did the cable just go out?” They’d seen the Soprano family squeeze into a booth at Holsten’s ice-cream parlor, eating “New Jersey’s best onion rings” while waiting for Meadow. When that front door opened, though: blackness.

The final scene of the final episode of The Sopranos ended with what has become the most famous cut-to-black in the history of premium cable, leaving everyone to wonder what the literal darkness meant. But even though that was the last we’d see of Tony Soprano — and James Gandolfini suddenly passed away six years later — the show has never left New York City’s restaurants and Italian food shops.