by Eric Asimov

Wine is now made in all 50 states, though few suggest much of it is any good. But on a hillside just outside this small town in central Vermont, a little east of the Killington ski resort, Deirdre Heekin makes wines under the label La Garagista that are so soulful and delicious, they challenge crucial assumptions long taken for granted.

Vermont may seem too cold for good wine. The climate is daunting, especially for vinifera grapes, the species that includes all the famous wine grapes of European origin known around the world. But Ms. Heekin grows hybrid grapes, crosses between vinifera grapes and those of hardier native American species, which can thrive.

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Source: http://www.nytimes.com/