The James Beard Foundation just announced the five winners of the America’s Classics Award for 2017. A St. Louis restaurant was recognized for the first time since the award’s inception in 1998. Stroud’s, Kansas City’s famous pan-fried chicken eatery, was honored that year and until today was the only Missouri restaurant to receive the James Beard Foundation’s iconic award. (The other America's Classics honorees for 2017 are Bertha's Kitchen in Charleston, SC; La Taqueria in San Francisco, CA; Sahadi's in Brooklyn, NY; and Schultz's Crab House in Essex. MD.)

It came as a surprise to Gioia’s co-owner Alex Donley that the deli, a restaurant with nearly a century-old heritage, received the honor. “When I learned how few restaurants were on this list, I was blown away. And when it sunk in, I was humbled,” he said. “I’m happy to receive the honor, but must also acknowledge the five generations that have owned and operated Gioia’s. They laid the groundwork. I'm just the loyal custodian."