In its heyday in the 1990s, well before the surge of new restaurants and bars on the midtown grid, Italian Importing Co. was known as an essential destination for lunch. The sandwiches were well-crafted, affordable and delicious, and you’d often get a little bit of banter on the side.

Current owner Larry Otten, an alumnus of the famed Corti Brothers deli counter, has been there daily the past 27 years, serving customers, getting in his wisecracks and rolling his eyes just enough so a newcomer would instantly realize it’s a crime against Italian culinary humanity to ask for mustard on a sandwich with perfectly good imported prosciutto. Heaven help you if you requested American cheese.