Grand restaurants are perfect for grand occasions, but where would we be without the delis in our lives, to supply a quick lunch or dinner or satisfy a craving years in the making? In a tough spot, which is why we can all be grateful for places like Plantone’s Italian Market, which helps alleviate Las Vegas’ perpetual (and mystifying) undersupply of Italian delis.

The family-owned Plantone’s, which opened in late December, clearly has an institutional sense of humor, with a nod to “our uncle Tony Bolony” and menu offerings like the Angry Sicilian and the Gabagool, for those who pronounce cappicola with an East Coast inflection. Regional flavor also comes through in a couple of specialties designed to satisfy the cravings of Philly/New Jersey expats — specifically the Italian hot dog and roast pork Italian.