By William Porter

With its deep roots in Denver's Italian-American community, North Denver was long known for restaurants that tapped that culture. Most were red-sauce rooms that drew on the southern part of Europe's high-heeled "boot." But with changing demographics, some of the most venerated places closed, including Pagliacci's in 2012 after a 66-year run.

Now there is a new player in the neighborhood, specifically the pocket known as Jefferson Park. It is Sarto's, a terrific new place that opened in the autumn. Owned by Taylor Swallow and his wife, Kajsa, the kitchen is helmed by Brian Laird, a name familiar to longtime Denver diners.

Read more

Source: http://www.denverpost.com/