Tiramisu is as ubiquitous on Italian menus as pasta. And just like pasta, not all tiramisu are equal. The key to success is in its name: “Tira mi su” translates literally to “lift me up”— wherein lies the secret. The lighter the lift, the better the dessert.

And this is what makes tiramisu so coveted; it’s not an easy lift, so to speak. A great tiramisu floats; the others sink. The balance of flavors and texture has to be just right to achieve the sublime over the soggy. And, of course, only the best ingredients can allow for this sweet alchemy.