Despite being a relatively small country, Italy boasts 20 different regions, each with its own customs, traditions and—last but not least— cuisine. Which regions have superior cuisine is a point of contention amongst Italians, says Stefano Terzi, co-owner and chef at Vice Versa in New York City.

“We’re talking about Italians here,” Terzi says. “Of course we argue about it. We are an opinionated bunch, and we love food. It’s a hot topic of discussion, that’s for sure.” While that topic will always be up for debate, most can agree that the nuances and complexities of regional Italian cuisine continue to inspire chefs and delight diners around the globe.