Before indoor dining shut down, I actually took a seat — with friends! — indoors at Sant Ambroeus, the most recent addition to Brookfield and to the line of Milanese coffee and pastry shops that first landed on these shores in the early eighties. (Our nearest cousin is on Lafayette and Prince, but there are three others in the city along with Southampton and Palm Beach.)

The décor is without a doubt beautiful and luxe in every regard. In fact, when indoor dining does resume, that window seat for eight will be prime. It’s not a cozy spot, but given the soaring ceilings and two-story Murano glass chandelier, I don’t think that was the design goal. Instead it feels like a lush treat, an indulgence, and obviously a direct descendant of its Upper East Side forebear.