Philly-style Italian: Merlino's

Dec 15, 2014 914

Executive chef Angelo Morinelli — known from yesteryear Cucina D'Angelo — is still here on the edge of Royal Palm Place, and it's still Italian. But the former Segreto has been transformed by new owners who have instilled a contemporary, South Philadelphia twist to traditional recipes.

As general manager John Wyner explains, it's about the texture. For example, the meatballs are pan-fried for crispiness, along with sausage and broccoli rabe ($16). Other highlights are Mediterranean mussels ($12), rigatoni Sunday gravy ($26) and South Philly veal scaloppini ($32).

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