Roberto Di Meo doesn’t run a typical winery that simply makes, bottles and sells wine. His approach to winemaking, in the quiet southern Italian hills of Campania’s Irpinia region, 40 miles east of Naples, seems at times like that of a tinkerer or an antiquarian.
Working in tiny Salza Irpina (pop. 800) with local varieties, particularly the white Fiano, Di Meo does things no one else does with aging in pursuit of hidden flavors and nuance. “It is beautiful to see what happens with time,” he says with a broad smile.
