Bolognese . . . Sauce or Dog? The answer is: both! But let’s first explore the city of Bologna, home of both the legendary pasta sauce and noble breed of dog. All too often overlooked on the basic Italian tourist itinerary: a buzzing prosperous city renowned as the gastronomic center of Italy and capital of the Emilia-Romagna. It has an opulent feel reflecting both its present and illustrious past. Bologna is bellissima.

The center is quintessentially medieval with red tiled roofs and balconies radiating out from the great central square of Piazza Maggiore and a harmonious ensemble of porticoed walkways, red-brick palazzi, and charming squares. There are numerous monuments and curiosities including plenty of small quirky museums and, most conspicuously, the Due Torri, Bologna’s own two “leaning towers.”