M&S Classics Chianti, Italy 2018, £8.50, Marks & Spencer Producers of chianti classico have a long-running beef with wines labelled simply as chianti. The classico wines come from the original, superior winegrowing lands between Florence and Siena, recognised as far back as 1716 by the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Cosimo III de’ Medici.

Chianti, by contrast, comes from a much larger neighbouring area. Classico producers argue that if you want the real thing, you need to look for the trademark black rooster on their bottles; simple chianti can never match up.