How Stanley Tucci's Big Night helped kick off an American dining revolution

Jan 26, 2016 737

by Matt Gross

There's this new restaurant you gotta try – no one knows about it yet. It's called Paradise, and it's Italian, real Italian, near the water in a little east coast port town a couple hours' drive from here. The dining room is spare and simple, with a lovely curved wooden bar up front, an antique espresso machine, and charming paintings on the wall donated by some local artist, I think in exchange for dinner.

Yeah, a real mom-and-pop spot, except "mom" and "pop" are two brothers from Italy who don't always get along. But the food? They say the seafood risotto's the equal of anything in Venice, and on special occasions they'll make timpano, this drum-size cake of pasta, meatballs, hard-boiled eggs, sauce, and, well, magic.

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