Any resemblance between Campari and the ruby red Aperitivo in the chef Patrick Miller’s new line of Faccia Brutto Italian-style spirits stops at the color. Faccia Brutto’s Aperitivo flowers with citric and herbal complexity, while the popular global brand has almost no aroma and is too sweet.

The Fernet Pianta, a bitter take on Fernet-Branca, is strong and dark, with notes of pine forest and anise. Amaro Alpino, another bitter spirit, delivers rosemary and a pleasing honeyed edge. Mr. Miller, a chef (Rucola in Boerum Hill, among others) dabbled in Italian-style spirits, researching old recipes before starting his spirits company in Bedford-Stuyvesant, Brooklyn.