The Bronx’s Little Italy is – as the name suggests – not huge. From the intersection of East 187th Street and Arthur Avenue that marks the center of the neighborhood, its commercial district extends another two blocks south before bottoming out at St Barnabas Hospital.

But those two blocks on Arthur Avenue contain everything you’d imagine a Little Italy should have: mozzarella emporiums, meat markets with sausages hanging like stalactites from the ceiling (and flayed whole calves in the display case), an old man hand-rolling cigars, and a number of legendary Italian-American eateries that predate the first Olive Garden by a few decades.