Food in Parma is all about our unique products – parmesan cheese, Parma ham – and the way we prepare them, as antipasti or as fillings for pasta. The best quality is found at the traditional salumerie and cheese shops on Piazza Ghiaia. Cibivari, half a mile away on Strada XXII Luglio, is a bakery and deli recently opened by the dynamic Roberta Boni, using local, seasonal produce in simple home cooking – focaccia, aubergine parmigiana. Take it away for a picnic or eat in at one of the small tables.

In Parma you are spoilt for choice when it comes to dining out. Inkiostro surprises me every time I go – its talented young chef, Salvatore Morello, creates exceptional fine dining menus, including a wonderful vegetarian version. For a complete contrast, try lunch (it doesn’t open in the evening) at Da Antonia, a typical, homely trattoria: eating there is like being in a 1950s Italian movie, with the signora stirring pots from early morning, and daily dishes that include trippa and succulent bollito misto.