Nothing in Turin compares to the spectacle put on each Saturday at Porta Palazzo market. Out in the main square, outside the two covered markets, are raucous fishmongers and the cheapest fruit and vegetables stalls.

My advice is to forget the modern Mercato Centrale – it’s more a trumped-up restaurant mall trying to look like Barcelona’s famous Boqueria – and head for the Antica Tettoia dell’Orologio, perfect for cheeses, salami and even white truffles. Then carry on out the back for the outdoor farmers’ market, where contadini sell incredible vegetables and wild herbs.