Anthony Mangieri is pizza royalty. For nearly 30 years, the master pizzaiolo has been turning out pies that flirt with perfection at Una Pizza Napoletana, his nomadic restaurant whose roots stretch back to New Jersey.

These days you can find him on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, where crowds grapple for a seat inside his Jordana Maisie–designed parlor adorned in tomato cans and artwork from friends, yearning to get their hands on one of his wholly original pies.