Sacramento has had phenomenal Italian grocers for decades, but until recently the Italian restaurants didn’t follow suit. Yes, there’s Biba, that iconic fine-dining institution so famous that its namesake earns nationwide respect. But really, if you wanted good pasta on a weeknight, your best bet was Corti Brothers, the (late) Italian Importing Co. or Sampino’s Towne Foods.

Sampino’s started as a wholesaler and transitioned to an Italian deli more than 15 years ago. Except for occasional Friday dinners, they never had sit-down service. Now, they have that opportunity with the takeover of Joe Marty’s. In December 2015, Joe Marty’s rose like a phoenix from the ashes of the original sports bar. New owners resurrected it, with lots of nostalgia but only so-so cooking. Michael Sampino knew he could improve it.