The Feast of the Seven Fishes is an Italian seafood-centric feast that dates back to the 1900s. This year’s feast at Bar Enza features staples from executive chef Tony Susi. For Susi, an Italian American, the feast carries profound meaning. It’s something he enjoys sharing with Bostonians and those who flock to the area this time of year. In some respects, he says, it’s a much larger event in the U.S. and in Boston than it is in Italy.

But as the demand for seafood grows, the supply of seafood shrinks. And demand isn’t the only thing making it increasingly difficult to harvest seafood. Climate change also makes the selection smaller. Many species that depend on cold water are now flocking northward away from the Gulf of Maine.