Boston has plenty of celebratory Italian-American restaurants designed for something more special than a pleasant, casual dinner of meatballs, spaghetti, and a nice Chianti. They feature cosseting service, big wine lists, and amenities like reservations, cocktails, and dessert: no line on the sidewalk or check dropped with the entrees.

But the atmosphere at these standbys can feel not so fresh: the trite Vegas-y décor, “The Godfather” looping on every TV. The Sopranos ended in 2007: Can we dial down the badda-bing swagger just a tad? It takes a strong woman (or better yet, two) to push the old boys aside.