At Rocca, there are at least three different types of olive oil. There’s a Ligurian version, a golden elixir that’s floral and soft. There’s a Sicilian oil that’s deeply aromatic with an almost spicy finish. And then there’s the Spanish Venta del Baron, an award-winning pale green oil that’s fruity and herbaceous and comes draped over a plate of haphazardly torn basil, fresh mozzarella and tomatoes (more on that showstopper dish later).

Each oil plays a special part at this Italian restaurant, which opened in October on the bottom floor of the Pearl apartments in Tampa Heights. Thoughtful and finessed touches run throughout the menu at this newcomer, an homage to the Italian family chef and partner Bryce Bonsack trained with while living in the Piedmont region of Italy.