When I was growing up in the 1970s, wines were frequently advertised on television and radio, especially the wines of Bolla, a giant producer in the Verona region of northeastern Italy. The wines Valpolicella, Bardolino and Soave became well known and highly popular, especially the Soave, or, as the announcer would croon, “Soave Bolla.”

I haven’t had those wines in years, but they were more innocuous than good. These appellations developed a poor reputation among those whose relationship with wine went deeper than picking up a cheap bottle at the supermarket. This is especially true of Soave, which was pigeonholed with all Italian white wines back then as harmless, if consumed icy cold.