While many (many!) come to Italy for the well-known wheat-based favorites like pizza and pasta, Liguria has a rich culture of non-wheat-based foods, the topography of the region being particularly inhospitable to growing the grain.

Here, rather, you’ll find chestnuts milled into flour and rolled into tagliatelle, delicious with funghi, and, most importantly, chickpeas in the form of panisse (fried chickpea flour sticks, eaten as a snack with a simple salt and pepper topping) and farinata, a large chickpea flour flatbread that’s most often eaten as a street food.