A diverse clientele—couples, families, visitors, regulars—were already in fine-dining mode when we arrived at Cafe Mare last week to enjoy the air-conditioned joys of a cool Italian meal. A landmark for several decades, this durable restaurant offers generous seating, a long and unpretentious menu, a full bar and attentive service.

The menu reflects the sensibilities of its Calabrian owner, and last week we enjoyed test-driving some Italian with our waiter, a young man living the good life, soccer and surfing by day, waiting tables in this downtown establishment by night.