When you walk into J. Devoti Trattoria, don't be surprised to see seven-year-old Luca Devoti diving across the floor, action figures in hand, as he pretends the dining-room tables are a fortress to guard against malevolent invaders. Granted, he only gets away with this early on in the evening's service, and even then, Bonnie Devoti is never far behind, tsk-tsking her grandson to make way as she seats incoming guests.

The scene takes place in St. Louis, but it would feel right at home at a quaint family-ruan restaurant in the old country. And that feeling is exactly what chef Anthony Devoti wants to convey with his new concept — a place where the only thing more Italian than a grandma shooing her grandson is a fiercely farm-to-table culinary ethos.