When I told friends I was headed to Lake Orta, precious few had heard of it. "Where's that?" they asked, looking blankly at me as I explained its proximity to Lake Maggiore and Lake Como. I could see what they were thinking; why not just go there?

After all, these two famed locations have long held mastery over Northern Italy's lake region, dotted with luxury hotels, restaurants and the odd Clooney (or four). They had me worried that I had chosen their poor relation. This concern was dispelled the minute I arrived.