When you move into a new house, you unpack the important stuff first. You set up the bed, decide where the couch is going, and get out the cooking supplies. Some of the other boxes can wait a bit. But, in the end, those lower priorities are the items that make the house your home: the silly knickknack you brought home from that trip, the soccer scarf that will feature in your Zoom call backgrounds, the shelf full of children’s sports trophies.

New restaurants can be like that, too. Not every spot opens with every box unpacked. Radici Wood Fired Grill, a high-end Italian restaurant from acclaimed chef and television presence Tiffany Derry, has all the essentials ready to go. The bar serves up impressive cocktails and nice bottles of wine. The kitchen cooks and smokes food on an open grill with logs stacked at the bottom. Cooks have technique to burn, and the service staff is charming and funny.