I’ve rarely given much thought to where cookies come from, and neither had the kid. But he could tell I hadn’t picked these up at the supermarket. “Where’d you get these?” he asked, a glazed lemon ricotta cookie in his hand. “Rancho Santa Fe.”

“They’re great!” he said through a lemony mouthful. “Wherever that is.” It feels like a trek, almost wherever you’re coming from, but the Rancho Santa Fe is where you’ll find Aunt Mary’s Italian Cookies. The small business holds down a booth there in the land of golf courses, at the Sunday farmers market