It’s a Wednesday night in Beverly Hills, and Cipriani’s latest outpost — and debut California restaurant — is packed. Attractive couples perched on stools and well-heeled women decked in black are sipping drinks from a grand bar at the entrance, while the main dining room — replete with signature reddish-brown wood, black and white portraits and round tables dressed in pristine white cloths — is an open show.

When you walk to your table, heads will turn, as everyone is curious who you are in this ostentatious display of exclusivity. In other words, Cipriani Beverly Hills has created just as much of an intriguing social scene as its infamous restaurants in Venice, Italy and New York.