A fire-pocked pizza hits a patio table at The Rose Venice, but tomato sauce and cheese are nowhere in sight. Instead, the base is bright yellow miso corn purée and a rosy seared bluefin tuna mountain rises up in the center, topped with towering shaved scallion wisps.

Chef Jason Neroni takes a spoon and levels the savory mound, spreading what is basically tuna tartare from edge to edge. A trip to Tokyo inspired this pizza, which fits with Neroni’s freewheeling, globally influenced style that will be on display at a Culver City pizza spinoff in 2022.