When word first went out that Lillian's Italian Kitchen, one of Santa Cruz's most popular, and coziest, restaurants, was moving to a vast space just down the street, I heard some worried muttering. Would the Moreno family be able to maintain the homey, intimate atmosphere developed at their little eatery over the last nine years? Relax. "Va bene" — It's all good.
Even though the new space is much larger — once home to Ebert's department store, it would later house a Harley-Davidson store and then Jerry's Sports — it feels every bit as warm and familial as the old spot. The biggest change is that now diners can make reservations rather than waiting hopefully on the sidewalk for a table to vacate. And if your reservation runs a few minutes late (the new restaurant is just as popular as the old one), do what we did: Use the time to check out the handsome new digs.