Meta replaces Sole, bringing a sunny taste of Italian cooking to the neighborhood. It’s Long Island’s latest mangia magnet. In full, this is Meta Osteria & Barra. In Italy, an osteria refers to a spot less formal than either a ristorante or a trattoria, with modest prices. Meta comes close. It’s a stylish, warm newcomer run by the former Sole team of managing partner Dennis Durdaller and chef-partner Robert Carmosino.

They oversee a streamlined, modern dining area where traditional Italian and Italian-American favorites compete. But there are some welcome, contemporary touches, too. The house’s “bag of donuts,” for example, contains shrimp-and-crab zeppoli, crisp mouthfuls fried like fritters, ready for a dip in lemon-caper aioli. Eggplant “meatballs” also highlight the antipasti, finished with tomato sauce and ricotta salata.