Beneath the Kimpton La Peer Hotel, down an echo-filled stairwell, Michael Fiorelli is deeply focused on dinner prep. This subterranean, stainless steel workstation isn’t where the Olivetta chef expected to be before the pandemic started, but he’s more comfortable than ever cooking food like this: coastal Mediterranean cooking with Italian overtones that reflect his family’s heritage.

This summer, Fiorelli and his partners Marissa and Matt Hermer return Olivetta to its original Melrose address while opening a new concept in a similar vein at this boutique hotel, where they launched the “Olivetta on Holiday” pop-up last fall.