An eight-level behemoth parked at the intersection of San Vicente and La Cienega, the Beverly Center has never exactly enticed as a dining destination during its three decades. That is, until the arrival of Cal Mare—the shopping mall’s ritzy new street-level restaurant that debuted as part of an ongoing $500 million renovation.

With its 8,200-square-foot dining room and wide-open kitchen, the grand palace of Italian seafood wouldn’t be out of place in Manhattan or Vegas (dinner at the mall has finally caught up with the $5,000 Mont-blanc watches sold upstairs). The transporting space nods to Italy’s Amalfi coast with white brick walls giving way to ocean blue subway tile, bougainvillea branches hanging from a wooden trellis, and a fireplace warming the outdoor patio.