Over the years, I’ve been a bit surprised by the number of locals — and even food writers — I know who have never been to Acquerello. Not only is it a two Michelin-starred, Italian San Francisco treasure since 1989, chef/co-owner Suzette Gresham remains one of our great national chefs.

She’s a dedicated powerhouse who has turned out stunning food for decades with humility and humor. Of the many chefs’ panel discussions I led during the height of the pandemic for the Golden Gate Restaurant Association (GGRA), her insights were among the most memorable and meaningful.