Great-grandparents from both sides of the Paterno family immigrated from Italy to West Virginia in the early 1900s. Four generations later — five, counting her children — Niki Paterno Kurten says the traditions of those early Italian roots have been carefully preserved. Case in point: their annual Feast of the Seven Fishes.

“My family does this every Christmas Eve,” she said. “We have at least 40 people come over to eat and everybody brings a different seafood dish.” Word of the Paterno family tradition spread quickly, and with it came repeated, not always subtle hints. “Everyone who heard about it used to say, ‘Oh, that sounds amazing — I need an invitation!’ So we said, ‘Why not?’”