In a city already packed with classic Italian-American restaurants, old and new, we always wonder that more continue to open. There are surely unplumbed depths to the many regional cuisines of Italy, but what more remains to be said in the language of red sauce?

Perhaps it’s the appeal of the tried and true. A menu of pizza, lasagna and fettuccine Alfredo may not promise excitement, but it generally offers something to satisfy even the most conservative diners in a given family, friend group or occasional gathering of coworkers. Plus, it is practically imperative for the over-21 to drink cheap Chianti in such restaurants, upping the odds that a good time will be had by all.