If you told me Mr. Beef was Chicago’s most popular tourist attraction of 2024, I’d believe you. Having never been to the River North stand (I’m a Johnnie’s or Al’s gal), I decided to join the line of folks who had flown into town and proceeded directly, suitcases in hand, to the restaurant on which the one in The Bear is based.

Despite all the questions (“What am I supposed to get here?” “What’s ‘hot’ ”?), the line moved quickly. (I noticed the cash-only policy has disappeared.) I could hear everyone ordering the Bear, so I did, too. Here, that means juicy, hot and sweet.