When is a new restaurant not a new restaurant? Today we take a look at two newish places in the western suburbs. La Notte Ristorante Italiano in Oak Park opened in November but is a virtual copy of 12-year-old La Notte Cafe in Berwyn; La Buona Vita in La Grange has been open more than two years, but chef/owner Terry Rempert recently debuted a new look and menu.

A more sophisticated version of its older sibling, La Notte Ristorante Italiano is a tiny gem in downtown Oak Park, seating about 50 under a pitched, timber-trimmed ceiling and twinkling white lights.