by Samara Kalk Derby

Grampa's Pizzeria on Willy Street is one of Madison's best new restaurants. And now another grandfatherly spot, Nonno's — that's grandpa in Italian — could also be a contender for that title. Nonno's Ristorante Italiano, which opened Dec. 2 on Madison's West Side, might have seemed an unlikely prospect because it was formerly the Mexican restaurant Cancun, and is run by the same owners, Juan Murillo and Joaquin Lopez.

The men, however, have a decade worth of history managing various locations of Tutto Pasta. And Nonno's takes it up a level. Everything we ordered on a recent visit was superb. There was simply nothing to criticize.

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