Sometimes you want fra diavolo and sometimes you just want red sauce. In the latter case, considerMama's Pizza (961 Rice Street, St. Paul) to satisfy your classic Italian-American cravings. Sitting for nearly half a century on the corner of Rice and Front, it's a North End neighborhood institution, though one that you likely haven't heard of unless you're from the neighborhood.

You walk in the front door of the old brick building, past a counter behind which flour dusted dudes work the pizza ovens, and into the compact dining room, booths line the sides and tables are packed strategically to achieve the room's maximum capacity. There is a second kitchen in the back. Murals depicting Italian scenes cover the walls.

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