With crisp white tablecloths, attentive service and comforting dishes, Antonio’s Italian Bistro offers old-school Italian-American hospitality in downtown Darien. The bistro celebrated its first birthday in November. Owner Antonio Sandolo, a product of the restaurant business in Stamford (his father owned and operated John the Baker), has strong opinions about hospitality. It starts with servers’ neat, well-attired appearance, and their goal of making guests feel special.

At Antonio’s, attentive servers welcome guests with warm, house-baked bread and a little bowl of stracciatella (a creamy, mild cheese) to spoon over the bread. Guests order wine by the glass or bottle and settle in to a succession of courses.